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An amuse-bouche arrives on a slate tile. It is a single pea in foam, described in 40 words, eaten in one second. That gap between ceremony and substance is where fine dining's cultural authority quietly collapses.
By Jules Fontaine · 3 min read
Per Se is charging $925 for an extended tasting menu, the NYT called the food gloppy, and Noma is gone. The tasting menu model is cracking under the weight of its own price tags. But the format is not dead. The chefs doing it right just stopped charging like they have a Michelin star to protect.
By Jules Fontaine · 4 min read